Have you ever looked in the mirror and realized that your foundation looked heavy or cakey? That’s certainly a look that most of us want to avoid at all costs. As a makeup artist who specializes in working with women over 50, one of the questions I get most often is, “How do I cover up the redness, age spots or discoloration on my face without my makeup looking heavy or cakey?”
I’ll answer that question today and share my 5 best secrets for creating a flawless looking complexion that looks natural, soft and beautiful.
Don’t Neglect This First Step
Before we talk about the five secrets, it’s first necessary to touch on skin care. Because as most of us know, there’s no way we can look our best without taking a few moments to prep our skin before applying makeup.
The first skin prep step is exfoliating our skin twice a week (unless you have rosacea), so that the dead skin cells which accumulate on our face don’t build up and cause problems like clogged pores, uneven skin texture and dull skin. They can also lead to bacterial infections and acne breakouts.
Removing dead skin cells also allows improved blood circulation in the skin’s tissues which helps our skin look better. And it allows skincare products to better penetrate the skin so they can be more effective. And since we’re paying good money for skin products, we definitely want our skin care to be as effective as possible!
Step Two
The second step is to moisturize our skin. But we want to make sure to save the heavier moisturizer for night and use a lighter moisturizer during the day. That’s because it’s easy for makeup products to sink into our skin if we apply too much moisturizer or use moisturizers that are too thick or heavy. And be sure to let the moisturizer fully sink in and dry before applying any makeup products.
Now let’s focus on those five secrets to covering age spots and discoloration so our skin looks flawless and not cakey.
Secrets #1 & #2: Where and How
The first secret is about where to apply it, and the second secret is how to apply it. We first want to make sure to shake any liquid foundation because most of the time the way we store our foundation allows the pigments to settle at the bottom which can affect the overall color and look of the foundation. Also, the oils in the foundation can separate, so we need to give the product a good couple of shakes.
Then it’s a good idea to squeeze out or pump out a small amount of the foundation onto the back of our hand.
Now, let’s focus on where to apply it. With your finger, brush or sponge, pick up a small amount and only apply it to the areas where you need the most coverage – not necessarily all over the face.
For most of us, the areas that will need the most coverage will be the center of our face, including our forehead, nose, chin, and cheeks. These areas are the ones that are more likely to have redness and blemishes, so applying foundation on these areas first can help create a more even complexion. And some of us also have age spots in other areas which need some attention. For instance, I have age spots along the lower part of my jaw line – especially on the left side of my face.
Now, let’s talk about how to apply the coverage. We want to start by applying a small amount of our usual foundation to just one of these areas at a time since foundation can quickly settle into the skin and we don’t want it to dry before we blend it in. And we just want one light layer. We can always apply a second light layer if we need it, but it’s best to create one light layer at a time and gradually build up the foundation if needed.
Then blend the foundation outwards towards the edge of the face. By applying foundation in this manner we’re getting the most coverage on the areas that need it the most. This method of applying and blending foundation in one small area at a time ensures that the foundation doesn’t settle into our skin unevenly.
In the video, I’ll apply the foundation onto one side of my face since I’ll be doing something different to the other side. Next, I’ll apply foundation to ½ of my chin and then ½ of my forehead. And finally, I’ll dot some foundation along my lower left jawline where I have a series of age spots and then I’ll blend it in.
Secret #3: Use that Sponge
Secret number three is to go back over our entire face with a very slightly dampened makeup sponge. That means a sponge that we’ve not only squeezed all the water out of with our hand, but which we’ve also wrapped in a cloth or paper towel and given a second squeeze. It’s important to make sure the sponge is only slightly damp so it only absorbs any excess amount of makeup.
Using a makeup sponge in this way ensures that our makeup doesn’t look cakey. And be sure to pounce the sponge along deep lines such as our marionette lines.
Be sure to check out Elise’s YouTube channel which specifically focuses on makeup tips, techniques, and product reviews for those of us 50+. Don’t forget to subscribe!
Secret #4: Needing Greater Coverage
Secret number four applies to those of us who need more coverage for age spots and discoloration. Surprisingly, it is possible to use a foundation with greater coverage and still avoid a cakey look. The secret is to use a foundation that provides great coverage, but which is lightweight.
Two foundations that have great, lightweight coverage that I’d recommend are KVD’s Good Apple Foundation and Doll 10’s Super Coverage Makeup. (And if you’d like to get a 15% discount on the Doll 10 product, be sure to use the link above and the Discount Code Elise15 at checkout.)
In the video, I’ll show you how fantastic the coverage is with both of these foundation by applying each of them on top of the vein on the underside of my wrist. If a product has really good coverage, you won’t be able to see the color of the vein. This test demonstrates the excellent coverage that both of these foundations provide.
In the video I’ll apply the KVD foundation that has greater coverage in the same way and in the same places as I did the first foundation, but on the other side of my face.
Secret #5: Use Concealer
Secret number five is to avoid using foundation altogether. Instead, use concealer just on the areas that need the most coverage and then gently feather out the product so there are no harsh lines of demarcation. But we will want to use a concealer that has really good coverage.
Two of my favorite concealers that have great coverage are Clinique’s Even Better Concealer and Natasha Denona’s Hy Glam Concealer. In the video, I’ll demonstrate how both of these concealers look on my face.
By using the techniques we’ve talked about today, you can cover age spots and discoloration so your skin will look flawless, and you’ll never again have to worry about your makeup looking cakey!
Let’s Have a Conversation:
Have you sometimes noticed that your makeup looks cakey? Have you tried any of these techniques? Which of these techniques do you feel might be most helpful to you?