As the days shorten and the temperature dips, it’s hard not to feel a little despondent at the prospect of the end of summer. But autumn can still be a wonderful time of year and is probably the best time to visit Italy. I love it for all sorts of reasons.
Italy’s seaside towns out of season can be magical. Once the sun beds and umbrellas are packed away, you’re left with heavenly stretches of powder-soft sand, and warm water which, thanks to the build-up of heat from months of sunshine, means that you can still comfortably take dips in the sea. Restaurants remain open and wherever you are, eating al fresco is still very much on the menu.
While cities such as Rome, Florence and Venice are still busy, crowds thin out in the streets and piazzas of many of the smaller towns, leaving just the locals going about their daily routines. Meanwhile, if you head into the hills, you’ll find a riot of colour. But wherever you go – and most importantly! – you’ll find plenty of opportunities to feast on some of autumn’s most delicious flavours.
Enjoy Spectacular Autumn Colours
Central Italy is magnificent in the autumn when forests of beech, maple, ash and chestnut produce a flaming display of blazing colours. Anyone planning a city break to Florence should include a leaf-crunching walk in the vast Parco delle Cascine which stretches for 3.5 kilometres along the river Arno. But for the best displays of autumn colour, I always head for the chestnut woods and beech forests of the relatively unknown Mugello region in northern Tuscany.
Celebrate Autumn Flavours
Autumn also produces some of Italy’s most fabulous flavour-packed gastronomic experiences. On the Amalfi coast, thoughts switch from lemons to clementines but in central and northern Italy, this is the time to feast on anything with squashes, mushrooms, chestnuts, and on hearty vegetable soups. Emilia Romagna and Lombardy are the best places to try plump pumpkin-filled parcels of pasta in the form of tortellini or ravioli di zucca.
In Tuscany, tuck into truffle-topped pappardelle and castagnaccio cakes prepared with dense chestnut flour, while in Piedmont, freshly harvested hazelnuts are a wonderful addition to many dishes. Meanwhile, down in the south of Italy, sweet, green figs – perfect with creamy burrata cheese – enjoy a second harvest.
Italy’s Autumn Food Festivals
Autumn is peak festival time and many of the events are structured around food. While truffle festivals take place in many towns in central and northern Italy, the most famous is the International White Truffle Fair which takes place throughout October and November in Alba, in Piedmont.
If porcini mushrooms are more your thing, stopping by the Borgotaro Mushroom Fair in the province of Parma in September is a must. Borgotaro mushrooms have a PGI designation (Protected Geographical Indication) and are generally thought of as superior to other porcini mushrooms.
The taste of roasted chestnuts is inextricably linked to autumn for me, and I love the celebrations that take place throughout October and November, and particularly the chestnut festival in Palazzuolo sul Senio in northern Tuscany.
Truffle Hunting and Harvest Time
But while mushroom hunters flock to the oak and chestnut woods in the Tuscan-Emilian Apennines, truffle hunters take to the hills in Tuscany, Umbria and Piedmont for the ultimate autumn food prize. Piedmont is best known for its delicate white truffle, always eaten raw and never more delicious than when sliced at the table over a fresh egg pasta!
Autumn is also, of course, harvest time. Grape harvesting comes first, and this is a great time for wine-tasting or guided tours of vineyards. The start of the harvest, or vendemmia, varies, depending on the weather, but visiting a winery during this time is a fascinating way to learn about local wine and culture. Olive harvesting follows slightly later and continues on until November or December.
Sightseeing in the Autumn
One of the biggest rewards of holidaying in Italy in the autumn is that the crowds have largely dispersed, and life returns to a more normal pace. Away from the traditional big-hitting sights which tend to be busy throughout the year, you’ll find a wealth of treasures in some of Italy’s smaller towns.
Head to the northeast coast and prepare to be dazzled by Ravenna’s glittering Byzantine treasures, or further south to the extraordinary town of Matera where churches have been carved out of the rocks, and hotels from former cave dwellings.
Or take a road trip through the north of Italy to take in some of the smaller towns such as Mantua or Vicenza which are so often overlooked by tourists.
Autumn Weather
And what about the weather? Well, you won’t get the soaring heat of July and August, but you can hope for warm, blue-sky days which are generally mild. In the north, expect a mix of sunny and rainy days, but if you’re after sunshine, then head for southern Italy where temperatures hover around 20°C, with around 7 hours of sunshine each day.
Let’s Have a Conversation:
Have you ever visited Italy in autumn? Where would you recommend for a holiday in October? Which is your favourite season?