Exotic Istanbul, part I

If you are debating about where you should go for your next vacation, or for that once-in-a-lifetime travel experience, let me introduce you to Istanbul, Türkiye (formerly Turkey). In this three-part article series, I will be bringing you along on the Istanbul leg of my adventure in Türkiye, and you can see for yourself if this exotic destination is for you. Once home to Sultans and Emperors, Istanbul is one of the great historic cities of the world. Food, culture, history, adventure, shopping – Istanbul has it all!

Before going to Türkiye, I really didn’t know much about it. My husband and I have been slow traveling the world going on three years now and we keep ourselves on a budget. (You can check out our YouTube travel channel Far Away Now.) This means we have been traveling the more inexpensive places first. We have done all of Southeast Asia and parts of India and Nepal. Then we decided to stop over in Türkiye and Greece and check them out on our way back to the U.S. for a visit.

Getting to Know the City

Istanbul was the most visited city in the world in 2023, followed by London, and then Dubai. We spent a whole month here. You can easily see most of the famous sights in a week, but like I said, we are slow travelers. We love spending longer in a location and getting to know the people, the culture, finding the best local places to eat, and visiting some off the beaten path places. Istanbul is also known for being a shopping and medical/dental tourism destination. But the history here is what captured me.

The Neighborhood

We always try to stay in a local neighborhood, if possible, and we had a nice room at a boutique hotel that was in a great neighborhood called Karakoy. We were very happy to find that our street had a small local breakfast place where we discovered the wonderful Turkish coffee. Plus, a great little grocery store and a few tasty local restaurants, all very reasonably priced. We became regulars in all these places.

Turkish coffee

After our first few visits to these establishments, we felt like part of the neighborhood as we were greeted warmly and exchanged small talk with the proprietors. Just on our street, we enjoyed tasty lamb Adana Kebap and Pide (pee-day) or Turkish pizza. I also discovered Çig Kofte. A vegetarian dish consisting of a paté made from bulgar wheat, herbs, and spices. It is formed into patties and put into a lavash wrap along with fresh veggies and sauce. I was hooked on this dish!

Adana Kebap
Pide

Our neighborhood was also very close to a tram station, and in walking distance to quite a few historical sites. One of the first things I noticed after we arrived, were pet sized food and water dishes outside of almost every business and residence in the city. This is because Istanbul is a city of cats. So, if you’re a cat person, you’ll love it.

Istanbul is cat city.

Getting Around

For a big city, Istanbul is very easy to get around. There are taxis everywhere, but that can add up pretty quickly. One of the first things we did was to buy ourselves Istanbul cards. This card gets you on the metro tram, public buses, ferry boats, and even into public toilets. You can get the card from a machine anywhere there is a metro station or a ferry terminal.

You load some money onto it and it’s ready to swipe whenever you want to get on any form of public transportation, and you can top it up as needed. We used our cards to get around the city and to take ferries cross the Bosphorus to the Asian side of Istanbul, and it really saved us a lot of money.

The trams and ferries are all modern, clean, and air-conditioned. Since this is a big tourist destination, English is widely spoken and used in signage at all public transportation stops, ATMs, and most everywhere else. There was always a friendly person that asked us if we needed help when we seemed confused by something. The people here are part of this city’s charm.

Rich History

I have to set the scene with a little bit of historical background to show how dynamic this city really is. Sitting at the crossroads where Europe meets Asia, Istanbul is an ancient city, and I was overwhelmed by the amount of history here.

Founded in 657 BC, and known as Byzantium, over the centuries it was ruled by the Greeks, Persians, Spartans, Athenians, and Macedonians before becoming part of the Roman Empire. In 324 AD, the city was chosen by Constantine the Great to become the new capital of the Empire. It was renamed to Constantinople, and Christianity was adopted, legalized, and made the state religion by the Emperor Constantine. I mention this because there is a lot of religious history here.

In 1453, the city was conquered by the Ottoman Empire and the official religion became Islam. Then in 1923, after the Turkish War for Independence, the Republic of Turkey was established under Mustafa Ataturk. As the country’s first president, Ataturk modernized Türkiye’s culture and led the nation into becoming a modern European country. The city officially became known as Istanbul in 1930.

The Hippodrome

The first place we visited was the Sultan Ahmet Square, where three must visit sites are in close walking distance to each other. The Hippodrome, the Hagia Sophia, and the Blue Mosque. The enormous Sultan Ahmet Square itself is where the Hippodrome stood for over 1,000 years. Built in 203 AD, this was an arena used for chariot racing. Talk about fascinating!

The Hippodrome

In 324 AD, the Emperor Constantine had it enlarged to hold 100,000 spectators. This was the center of the city’s social life, and huge amounts of money were wagered here. There were 4 racing teams, each consisting of 2 chariots pulled by 4 horses, and each team was sponsored by a political party.

Once adorned with great works of art and even bronze statues of famous chariot drivers and their horses, none of that remains today. But you can still see the remains of Emperor Constantine’s Serpent Column, and the obelisk of Emperor Theodosius the Great, which he brought all the way from Luxor, Egypt. Standing in the middle of this huge space, I found it exciting to imagine the chariot races and everything else that went on here for centuries.

The Hagia Sofia

At one end of the Hippodrome stands the Hagia Sofia, which translates to Holy Wisdom. If I had the opportunity to visit only one thing in Istanbul, I would pick this. Built in 532 AD, under Emperor Justinian I, the Hagia Sofia is a representation of outstanding Byzantine architecture and art, and a major cultural and historical site here in Istanbul.

The Hagia Sofia, inside

The first of its kind, its dome alone is said to have changed the history of architecture. Built by the Eastern Roman Empire, this was the principal church of the Byzantine Empire in the capital of Constantinople.

It is described as “holding a unique place in Christian history” because for almost 1,000 years this was the world’s largest cathedral, and the center of religion for the Eastern Orthodox Church. In 1453, when the city was conquered by the Ottoman Empire, the cathedral was converted to a mosque and remains so today. I was blown away by the beauty of not only the building itself, but also the amazing mosaic art decorating the walls that reflect its history of being both a Christian church and a Muslim mosque.

The Hagia Sofia is still an operating mosque today, but everyone is welcome to come in and tour the second level and the grounds, during non-worship hours. Even though the Hagia Sofia, and the entire country, were taken by the conquest of the Ottomans in 1453, and the cathedral turned into a mosque, the beautiful Christian mosaics inside were not destroyed.

You can still see this beautiful artwork today that reflects Jesus, the Emperor, the Empress, the Apostle John, and Mary with baby Jesus. Throughout the centuries and the countless battles fought here, these mosaics were never destroyed and stand as timeless witnesses to the cultural and religious history not only of this building, but of the city itself.

Interesting fact: On the marble railing that surrounds the second level, there is a small portion with a protective covering where you can see that someone carved their name into the marble. It says Halvdan. He was a Viking soldier serving in the Emperor’s Royal Guard. I find it funny that someone would be brave, or stupid, enough to carve their name into the Emperor’s new cathedral.

Viking soldier inscription.

The Blue Mosque

At the opposite end of the Hippodrome, you will see the domes of the beautiful Blue Mosque, one of the most iconic and visited places in the city. This popular monument of Ottoman architecture is officially known as the Sultan Ahmet Mosque. This historical imperial monument was built in 1609. It remains a functioning mosque today and is a UNESCO World Heritage site.

The Blue Mosque, inside.

Inside it is decorated with thousands of Iznik tiles and hand painted motifs in various shades of blue, giving it it’s popular name. This place was packed with tourists from all over the world, but it is so large inside that it never felt crowded or overwhelming. The site is free to enter.

There is so much to see and do in Istanbul, it’s incredible, and I can’t possibly fit it all into one article. In my next article, part two of Istanbul, I will be introducing you to not only more amazing food found here, but also the Spice Bazaar, Galata Bridge, Basilica Cistern, Galata Tower, and the Kadikoy district.

You can also check out our Guide to Istanbul, part one, YouTube video below.

Let’s Have a Conversation:

Have you had a once-in-a-lifetime travel experience? If so, what type of experience did you have, or do you want? A historic destination, a safari, a mountain getaway, or maybe a tropical beach? What is your idea of a dream destination?

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